Wednesday, June 24, 2009

Eye Makeup 101


It's been said that the eyes are the windows to the soul. If that is true, I am here to show you how to "open" them up! As a makeup artist, I am constantly being asked by my clients about how to achieve various looks. By far, the most requested is the smokey eye. Before I begin my video tutorial series which will cover that look and many others, I am going to going to reveal to you the foundations needed to perfect your shadowing technique.

Any "master" of a trade has their tools and makeup is no exception! Having the right tools can make a huge difference in your application. Your first step should always be applying an eye primer. A good primer will improve the appearance of your eyeshadow by making it appear more pigmented and preventing both creasing and fading throughout the day. There are several brands on the market but my two favorites are Urban Decay Primer Potion and Too Faced Shadow Insurance.

Secondly, the right makeup brushes will enable you to create whatever look you desire with minimal effort. The following brushes should be a part of your collection:
MAC 239 Shading Brush - Use this to pat color on the lid. Since it is somewhat stiff it prevents shadow "fallout" all over your face.
MAC 217 Blending Brush - Use this brush in your crease or to highlight under your brow. It is also excellent for blending out harsh lines.
MAC 219 Pencil Brush - This is a must for smoky eyes! You can create a defined outer V in your crease and/or use it to smudge color under the lower lashes.
Smashbox #21 Arched Eyeliner Brush - This fine, angled tip brush gives you control and allows you to get a precise line.
Although I am giving examples of MAC brushes for reference purposes, please feel free to refer to my previous post on makeup brush dupes for inexpensive alternatives.

Your last tool is your eyeshadow, of course! Since there are many styles of makeup looks there are equally as many different eyeshadow options available. Aside from the different shades there are different finishes as well. Here are the most common ones and what they mean:
Shimmer: Sparkly eye shadow with soft glittery effect.
Matte: Flat color with NO shimmer or frost.
Sheer: Hint of opalescent color.
Glitter: Eye shadow with glitter to create bold sparkles.
Frosty: Shimmery eye shadow without glittery effect.
Metallic: Bold colors with intense shimmer.
As a general guideline, you should mix your finishes. This allows for a far more interesting look since it provides a contrast. For example, if you have some shimmer on the lid, put a matte or satin color under the brow and vice versa.

Finally, use your creativity! This is your greatest tool. Remember, there are no rules in makeup! It's all about expression. Just as your choice of clothing is an extension of your personal style, so should be your makeup. Enjoy!

Crime does pay!
The Makeup Bandit

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